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Tuesday, February 20, 2024

Finding R.K. Narayan in Mysuru

The auto-rickshaw puttered through the quiet, leafy streets of Yadavagiri in Mysuru, the morning sun filtering through the canopy of trees. The further we went from the city's bustling centre, the more the world seemed to slow down, the air growing still and peaceful. We were looking for a piece of literary history—the home of R.K. Narayan, the creator of the fictional town of Malgudi. The address was simple: No. 14, Vivekananda Road. 

    The house, when we found it, was an unassuming, two-storey white structure behind a gate, a simple signboard announcing "R.K. Narayan's House". It stood in serene contrast to the modern apartments around it, a quiet guardian of memory. As we walked up the short path, past a lovingly tended frangipani tree, it felt less like approaching a museum and more like coming to visit the home of a beloved, though absent, grandfather. We slipped off our footwear, a gesture of respect that instantly made the experience feel personal and intimate.

    Inside, the ground floor was cool and dim. A young man named Shivakumar, who seemed to be the caretaker, greeted us with a warm smile. He didn't lecture; instead, he shared stories. We saw the dining space, with its simple red oxide floor and a four-seater teak table where the author would have shared meals . Glass cabinets held personal effects that felt incredibly intimate: his spectacles, a neat row of pens, a watch frozen in time, and his medals, including the Padma Bhushan and Padma Vibhushan. On the walls hung black-and-white photographs—Narayan with his brother, the legendary cartoonist R.K. Laxman, with Graham Greene, and with the first Prime Minister, Jawaharlal Nehru. Each image was a frozen moment, a thread in the tapestry of a long and prolific life.

    Shivakumar then led us upstairs, and we entered the soul of the house—Narayan's study. It was a "bay room," just as he had described it in his memoir, "My Days", with large windows on multiple sides that let in the gentle morning light and offered a view of the garden below. This was the sacred space where the ordinary was transformed into the extraordinary. I could easily picture him at his low writing table, a collection of Arthur Miller's plays nearby, conjuring the lives of Swami, Raju, and Margayya.

From this very window, Shivakumar told us a poignant story. Narayan's daughter, Hema, was undergoing treatment for cancer in her final years. From this vantage point, her father would stand and watch the road, anxiously waiting for her to return from her chemotherapy sessions in Chennai. The view, once a source of inspiration, became a place of worried vigil. The house was not just a place of creation, but also of deep, human love and loss. Narayan had lost his young wife, Rajam, to typhoid many decades earlier, and here he was, years later, grappling with the illness of his daughter. The room, bathed in sunlight, felt heavy with this quiet, enduring sorrow.

    Another cabinet displayed stills from the iconic television series "Malgudi Days", directed by Shankar Nag. Seeing the faces of Swami and his friends, the familiar visuals of the show that had brought Narayan's world into our living rooms, was a delightful shock of recognition. It bridged the gap between the imagination of the man who sat in this room and the global phenomenon his creation had become.

    As we prepared to leave, we paused by a display of a commemorative postage stamp released in his honour. It felt like a small but official seal on a legacy that belonged to the world. Walking back down the path, past the frangipani tree and out the quiet gate, the bustle of Vivekananda Road slowly seeped back in. We left the house with a profound sense of peace. It wasn't just a collection of artefacts; it was a place where a life had been lived—full of work, love, grief, and quiet observation. And in its silent, sunlit rooms, the spirit of Malgudi, and its gentle creator, felt wonderfully, palpably alive.

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